Vermouth, variations & if you’re lucky some wine.

From France, with love.

Amongst the pallets and the fridges of Harcourt apple cooperative hides barrels of inspiration and a magical, medicinal smelling vermouth cave.

Gilles Lapalus’s story is as exciting and varied as his wines.  He makes Australian wine with French passion in the heart of Central Victoria, near trendy and tranquil Castlemaine (Bertrand Bespoke & Maison Lapalus), but it’s his vermouth that forces my pen to paper.  As the solar powered Harcourt apple cooperative-cum-winery is also home to Australia’s first locally made Vermouth, Maidenii, founded in 2011 and named after Joseph Maiden, a champion of Australian botanicals.

Vermouth is a wonderfully versatile drink but despite it being a great aperitif, digestif or cocktail ingredient and Gilles firmly believing there is no mood that doesn’t suit it, it’s often overlooked.  But not by Gilles, who was asked a decade ago to craft a gin by Melbourne’s famous Gin Palace.  Instead he said he’d rather make something that goes with gin.  He landed Attica as his first customer and the rest - as they say - is history.  Today, Maidenii can be found all over the world behind the best bars, on the most coveted Bottleshop shelves.

Gilles has a deep respect for the history of oenology but a keen innovator he has a habit of trailblazing.  Arriving in Australia in the 80s, he brought pet-nat, concrete egg fermenters and piquet to our shores.  Since launching the first Aussie vermouth he’s recently crafted Australia’s answer to Campari and continues to experiment with a newly launched yuzu infused vermouth.  He continues to champion responsible use of water in the vineyards he works with.

Once a consultant of taste, it’s no wonder Gilles’ vermouth experience is a deep dive into the nuances of our senses.  Great Vermouth must find a balance between the sweet, sour and bitter aromas which arise from fruit, flower, leaf, root, bark and seed infusions blended into the base wine.  The rows of jars of botanicals that line the walls of Gilles’ cool and dark vermouth cave inspire thoughts of Hogwarts and medieval apothecaries.  It is after all just like making perfume Gilles explains.

Gilles’ talent is matched only by his charm and joie de vivre.  A tasting with him is entertaining, educational and most importantly delicious.  Your drinks shelf and dinner guests will forever be grateful for this most humble but intriguing addition.

Time from Melbourne | 1hour 30 minutes

Vermouth RRP | $50

Gilles is hosting an Aperitivo Hour at Harcourt Coop on Saturday 1st November.

Find tickets here.